Island Girl Away

Exam Insanity and Sushi

2007-05-30T11:49:00.000-03:00

As some of you may know, I had insomnia in Law School. Now I've always had a hard time sleeping, but back then I would go for days with no sleep at all. But the funny thing is, I haven't had any real bad nights since... until the night before the barrister's exam! I think my body is trying to tell me something, or maybe I just react badly to stress.

Anyway, when I got up yesterday to head out to the exam, I had slept less than two hours. Not a good sign!

The scene at the Direct Energy Centre was insanity. The exam started at 9:30 (but we had to be seated at 9) but by 8 am there were around a thousand prospective lawyers (more than the entire population of Dal Law) milling around getting coffee, catching up with friends, and waiting in lines. The lines to get signed in weren't too bad (they were well organized by last name, a few letters to a line. But more than an hour before the exam, people were already lining up to get into the room. I figured it was like at an airport: as soon as they announce that the flight is boarding, everyone gets up to stand in the line. But the flights not taking off till its scheduled time, and the seats are assigned, so what exactly is the advantage of being the first one on board? I'm inclined to sit in the waiting area and wait till the line dies down. Which is exactly what I did!

The exam itself was long (7 hours!) but made even longer with waiting for everyone to be seated, getting instructions (be sure to fully blacken the bubbles!) and then waiting to be allowed to leave again. I'm sure I wasn't the only one at the end who was ready to make a break for freedom (or a bathroom!) as we waited for all the exams to be picked up, all the exit passes handed out, and everyone to leave row by row.

But I got through it. Thank the goddess for coffee and dark chocolate, I got through it. And I think I did OK: I finished all the questions and even had time to check some of my answers.

To celebrate having it over, I went out with Kara for all-you-can-eat sushi. We went to a place called My Sushi, and the all-you-can-eat menu had teriyaki and tempura as well (and ice cream! All you can eat ice cream is a beautiful thing) so I knew that despite not liking sushi, I wouldn't go hungry. But Kara had convinced me to try some “beginner's sushi” (has anyone else read Sushi for Beginners?) So we had spicy tuna, spicy salmon, and dragon rolls. I liked the spicy salmon rolls the best, though the spicy tuna wasn't bad either. Both had rice on the outside, with some crunchy stuff that was really good. Its the texture of the seaweed that bugs me, always makes me feel like I'm going to gag, but without the seaweed wrapper I quite liked it! (Enough that we got another order of the spicy salmon!) The dragon rolls had avocado, crab, eel, and salmon on the outside. I didn't mind the avocado, but the raw salmon gave me that gaggy feeling again. I declined to try the crab or eel. (Yes, I'm a wimp.) We also had tempura and beef teriyaki, both of which were quite yummy. And green tea ice cream for desert. So, it turns out that I don't hate sushi, I even like some of it! I might just be adapting to big city life.

So, one more exam to go, then just the long wait for results. That's the worst part: worrying about how I did, but not being able to do a damn thing about it! As it happens, the Solicitor's Exam is on the first day of NXNE, so I think my reward for getting through it all will be an armband. Four days, 450 bands! Now, I can't go to all of them, so here is the link: I'm soliciting suggestions from my more musically knowledgeable friends about which are the “must see” ones.

Introducing... Island Girl Away!

2007-05-03T00:08:00.000-03:00

I'm no longer “Island Girl Abroad” as I've been back in Canada for almost a year now! But I thought it might be fun to get the blog going again, especially now that I've moved to Toronto, so far from most of my friends/family! And I have to say, Toronto is almost as exciting right now as a foreign country. Here are some fun facts:

Toronto is designated by the UN as the most multi-cultural city in the WORLD.

Toronto is the only city outside Asia where all schools of Chinese cooking are represented.

Pretty exciting, huh?

So, I'm living in Greektown, at Pape and Danforth, very close to lots of fabulous restaurants. In fact, I may write an entry about a few of the places I've eaten soon, but right now its getting late, and I am very tired.

So welcome to “Island Girl Away” the new incarnation of my blog, also available on Facebook!

Update from Heathrow

2006-04-27T23:49:00.000-03:00

Well, I'm getting home, slowly but surely. Dad is going to be able to pick me up in Halifax, so I should be home by 10ish tommorrow night. Or is that tonight now? I'm not sure, lets just say friday. All sense of time has left me, you could tell me that its 3 pm on march 6 2007 and I'd have no reason not to believe you.

So if I'm still human and coherant (or even if I'm not) it would be cool to get together with a couple close friends for a quiet drink Friday night. Cause I've been missing ya'll like mad!

An Epic Journey

2006-04-24T11:30:00.000-03:00

So, I left Lamu Sunday morning, boat to the mainland then 7 hours on a bus, then took the night train to Nairobi, another 17 hours. Now I'm waiting for another bus, 12 hours this time, to get to Kampala. Then a matatu to nkozi, boda boda to UMU, car to airport, and a couple really long plane rides. And of course I'll take the tube in London. So i've got 6 days of travelling on everything but hotair balloons to get home! But the one part of the journey that is still uncertain is how to get from Halifax to PEI! Isn't it ironic that I can travel six days, through 3 continents, and the hardest bit is the final 3 hours to get home!

So, unless by some miracle I find a ride waiting at the airport (4:40pm, Halifax airport) I guess I'll be overnighting in Halifax and taking the shuttle to PEI on Saturday.

Coming home, joyfully and reluctantly

2006-04-20T04:03:00.000-03:00

I am loving Lamu. I could stay here forever (if I could get ya'll to come join me here). Its gorgeous, and next week is Malid, a festival that includes among other things, a donkey race! I have my ticket now, though, so I will not be able to enter the race. Very sad, but also wonderful to know I will be with ya'll again soon.

So here is the plan: I will be arriving at Halifax airport at 4:40pm on April 28th. All previous offers regarding my pants, good karma, and heaven apply. In other words, I am again soliciting for rides from the airport! And please ensure a good band is playing at Baba's that night, that the sun is shining, and that you keep the evening free for some serious catching up (and a couple of drinks!) I miss ya'll, and its only for the people I love that I can tear myself away from paradise!

Lamu is Wonderful

2006-04-18T11:46:00.000-03:00

Well, now that I can hold solid food in my stomach again, I am loving Lamu! Spent the day on a dhow trip. We sailed for a bit, went fishing (caught so many fish! about 20! the first line I cast got a bite! Sylvia (Norwegian girl I went with) caught 2 on one hook!) then sailed to Manda Beach and spent a coupple hours swimming and chilling out in hammocks. And had an amazing lunch of rice, vegatable curry, and barbequed fish. All in all an amazing day. I never want to leave. (But don't worry, I will still be home soon.)

Really Quick Update from Lamu

2006-04-17T08:31:00.000-03:00

Hi all. I'm now in Lamu, having stopped at watamu and Malindi on route. Internet is ten times the price it is on the mainland, so this is going to be super quick. I hung out at the beach in Watamu and Malindi, saw the Gede Ruins, and got a sunburn lying by the pool at an upmarket hotel in Malindi. I have swum in the Indian Ocean; I also figured out why people go to beach locations but hang out at hotel pools: seaweed and beach boys. thought i had figured out how to get beach boys to leave me alone, by tipping a hotel security guy to keep them away, but then the security guy started bugging me for a date. My fake boyfriend at home didn't help, instead it led him onto a rant about how its not natural to abstain, and i should have a boyfriend in Kenya too, cause my boyfriend probably isn't waiting for me! Such is the attitude here. So now I'm in Lamu, going on a dhow trip tommorrow, and coming home as soon as my travel agent gets back to his office and arranges my flight!

First Glimpse of the Indian Ocean

2006-04-12T10:38:00.000-03:00

I’m wandering through a fifteenth century Portuguese fort when I catch a glimpse of turquoise through a gun port. Then it hits me: I’m in Mombassa, and this is the Indian Ocean. And I haven’t seen the ocean in far, far too long. So I perch on a cannon and pear out at the most gorgeous tropical shoreline, with the scent of salt water tickling my senses. And realized what has been missing all these months: salt water. I had to take a moment, it was that good.

So, I’m in Mombassa after a mostly lovely train ride from Nairobi. The Lonely Planet was right about the waiters in starched white uniforms, but I’m still not sure how squatting over a hole on a moving train fits into “One of Africa’s great rail journeys” where passengers “are treated to the full colonial experience.” Still, it was a nice journey; I got lucky and didn’t have to share the cabin.

From here I am heading tomorrow to Watamu and the Gede Ruins, then up to Lamu. And that will likely be the end of my travels, I’m looking into booking a ticket home very soon. Cause I miss ya’ll muchly!

3 days in the Mara

2006-04-10T05:52:00.000-03:00

Just back in Nairobi after a three day safari in the Masai Mara. It was great; I saw elephants, wildebeests, gazelles, warthogs, zebras, giraffes, buffalo, hippos, crocodiles, baboons, monkeys, lions, and cheetahs! Getting there was quite an adventure, it was pouring rain and the road was a river. Eventually the engine got too wet and we started stalling. Then we are standing by the side of the road, the driver has part of the insides of the van in his hand, pouring some kind of gunk out of it. Yeah, I finally found a use for which buying a hummer is justified, African roads in the rainy season. Maybe I’ll start an NGO – Hummers for Africa! See the idea would be that folks who have realized that driving a hummer to the video store makes them look like a prat (and besides have decided to buy an overpriced sports car) could donate their hummers to needy Africans!

Anyway, we eventually got there and were rewarded with lions. The campsite wasn’t great, but the game drives were!

While there we also visited a Masai village. I would have to say that the whole village thing was icky. We paid the chiefs son about $8 to be shown around the village and take pictures. The whole thing had an uncomfortable people safari feel to it. The men did a dance to welcome us, which was ok, though unenthusiastic, but when he rounded up the women to dance it was just really clear that they didn’t want to do it. The village was made out of cow dung, and the flies were awful. Children were crusted in them, and not even trying to brush them off. Horrible poverty and they lost half their cows to the drought, so I suppose the money from tourists helps, but it was just really icky and exploitative feeling. Oh, also icky, married women where a brass anklet on each ankle, engaged girls where an anklet on only one ankle. And almost all the girls had them, including a child we were told is 13 months old. She can barely walk or talk, but she is already “booked” to be married. Then the tour ended with the craft market. I would have liked to look around, maybe would have bought something, but it was impossible, as soon as my eyes stopped on an item for more than a second the hard sell would start. So I tried to leave, but my way was blocked by people holding out bracelets, necklaces, shields and carvings. I was feeling pretty claustrophobic by the time I got out.

So that’s what I’ve been up to for the last little bit, I’m back in Nairobi now. Tonight I am catching the train to Mombassa, for some chilling out at the coast. From Mombassa I’ll be heading up the coast to Lamu, but stopping at a couple of beaches and some cool ruins along the way. I’ll try to get to the internet soon.

Bruised, Burned, and Happy

2006-04-06T10:05:00.000-03:00

I loved Lake Naivasha so much that I spent 4 days there. The highlight was biking through Hell’s Gate National Park. A 30 km trip, and I did it! And that’s not counting the gorge walk.

I can’t fully describe the feeling of being out in nature like that all on my own. The path is sandy, the bike kept slipping, the gear shift broke, and it was still glorious. Towering cliffs all around, zebras and giraffes grazing in the distance. Plus buffalo, gazelles, and warthogs.

The gorge path is crazy, rock faces with tiny paths cut in, and steps so narrow that it’s practically rock climbing in places. For the movie geeks you’ll be interested that part of Tomb Raider 2 was filmed in Ol Njorowa gorge, took a couple of pics there.

So Hell’s gate was hard but glorious. I managed to fix the gear shift with my Swiss army knife, and generally the whole experience made me realize that I’m stronger than I usually think. This whole trip has been really confidence-building.

I also went horse back riding at the lake. Horse back riding is a whole lot harder than I remembered, but still very fun.

So that’s why I’m covered in bruises and sunburns. But it’s totally worth it.

I arrived in Nairobi last night. Nairobi is much nicer than I expected, very developed, and I’m not getting harassed on the street here. I guess the people here are cosmopolitan enough not to find muzungus that strange or worthy of comment. Which is really, really nice.

I have arranged a three day safari in the Mara leaving tomorrow. Can’t wait, its going to be awesome. I’ll try and post some pics when I get back.

Naivasha

2006-04-02T06:17:00.000-03:00

Well, I'm in Lake Naivasha now. Staying at a gorgeous camp in my own cabin overlooking the lake. I ended up deciding to skip Lake Bogoria, as its main attraction is flamingos, and I saw tons of them at Lake Nakuru. So I'm going to chill here for a few days, then head for the coast via Nairobi. While here I'm planning to bike in Hell's Gate National park, visit Crater Lake Game Sanctuary, and hike around Longonot. I miss ya'll tons, and it won't be long untill I'm home.

Laurie is Pondscum and this post was a very very tasteless joke.

2006-03-31T11:06:00.000-04:00

Below is the incredably stupid April Fools Joke I tried to play. I am truly sorry for worrying the people I love. It was juvenile and stupid, and not at all funny. I am sorry.

I'm not sure how to start this post as I realize it will come as a shock to all of you. I wish that I was at home and could talk to all of the people I love face-to-face about the important decision I have made. However, that is not possible now, nor will it be for some time, I fear.

So I realize that this is not the most sensitive way to make this announcement, but it is the most efficient means at my disposal. But I am truly sorry that I cannot tell all of you this in person. I hope that you will forgive me.

While in Nkozi I have been exposed to and experiencing Christianity in a way I never did in Canada. I was very impressed by the sisterhood of the nuns, and very drawn to it as well. For the last several months I have been seriously considering the path my life has taken to this point, and the changes necessary for me to be a happy person, and to be of some benefit to the world around me.

I have come to a conclusion that will come as a shock: I have decided to become a nun. I have discussed this with various Sisters at length, and have decided that I will be join the Sisters of Eternal Mercy. They have a convent in Jinja, I will be joining them as a novice in four days time. I wanted to join as soon as my contract ended, but they encouraged me to take this short trip to have time to be sure that the call was truly in my heart. It is.

I am saddened that this decision will keep me away from friends and family for many years, but I truly believe that I am following my true path, and I hope that you will all support me in this.

The wonder of it all!

2006-03-28T08:58:00.000-04:00

You know how as a child you live in daydreams, and expect an extraordinary life, but then life teaches you to accept less, to accept a boring 9-5 job, a life like every other, even, dare I say it, like your parent’s life? Well, it came to me in Kakamega Forest, the last stand of tropical rainforest in Kenya, that this is how I had been living, without intending it. And as I sat in my room in the canopy, with only the cries of night birds and insects as company, that this is what I had been doing, living an average life. But by a strange set of impulsive decisions I have escaped. And found myself climbing rickety ladders to the top of waterfalls in Sipi Falls, Uganda, and waking in the predawn hours to watch the most perfect sunrise of this forest. And I am learning the art of happiness, and I am determined not to loose this when I return to Canada.

Practical Junk: It’s been a lot of traveling from place to place, and some very long matatu rides. I left Kampala on Saturday and spent all day traveling to Sipi. The campsite there was occupied by a group of students from American Christian Colleges; let’s just say that they are having very, very different college experiences than I did! Still, they were friendly, and their occupancy of all the dorm beds led to me getting a good deal on a single cabin, always nice. Sunday morning they left, and I went on a hike with Karin, an Australian cardiologist who was staying at the same site. Though I didn’t know she was a cardiologist at the time, I was reassured after the fact that there had been someone with me who would have known what to do if my heart had given out on the crazy climb to the top of the falls. Still, it was worth it, the view from the top was amazing!

Spent the afternoon and evening recovering, then spent Monday traveling to Kakamega in Kenya. It was gorgeous, and I had it all to myself! Got there at dusk, then woke up early (before 5 am!) for a sunrise walk. Climbed another hills, went to a bat cave, and saw Blue and Columbus monkeys playing in the trees on the way back. Then stopped in Kakamega Town to by a SIM card (I now have a Kenyan phone number, and I can send text messages!) then another long travel day to arrive in Kitale. I am spending the night here, then tomorrow I will go walking in Saiwa Swamp, then head for Nakuru.

Miss ya’ll tons, but loving the travel.

Setting Out

2006-03-24T13:30:00.000-04:00

I'm in Kampala, taking advantage of what may well be the last internet access I'll have for a while, certainly the last free email access. I'm a bit late setting out, meant to be in Sipi by now, but I decided to save some cash by staying in Nkozi last night instead of heading for Kampala, then I was busy with errands till afternoon, at which point it was a bit late to set out, as I don't like arriving in new towns after dark. So I had a nice lunch with Alexis and stopped at Aristotle (nice bookstore in Kampala) and bought Long Walk to Freedom, Nelson Mandela's autobiography, which looks very interesting, and also, being as it was a long walk, a good read for a long journey. (By that I mean it'll take a while to read, a good thing when bookstores are few and far between.)

So tommorrow I head to Sipi, then into Kenya. See below for more detailed plans. And I have asked my parents to post in the comments here when they hear from me, so if I'm away from the internet too long you'll all know that I haven't been eaten by a hyena!

Two weeks To Nairobi - Great Rift Valley, Here I Come!

2006-03-22T02:33:00.000-04:00

So here is the plan: After hanging out for a few days at Sipi Falls in Uganda, I will cross the border on Sunday at Malaba in Kenya, then head to Kakamega Forest. I will stay overnight, do some walking in the forest, then head to Saiwa Swamp just north of Kitale for a couple of hours walking in one of the smallest parks in Africa. I will then head to Nakuru; I should arrive there around the 29th. I will explore the nearby Hyrax Hill Prehistoric Site, and arrange a short safari into Lake Nakuru National Park, then head up to Lake Bogoria for a day or two with the flamingos. I will probably spend around 4 days in Nakuru and the surrounding area. I will then head for Naivasha around the 2nd of April. I will hang out at the lake, see the game reserve, go biking in Hell’s Gate, and hiking on Mt. Longonot. I expect to spend around 4 or 5 days in Naivasha and surrounding. On my way from Naivasha to Nairobi I will stop at Thomson’s Falls for a short hike, likely won’t stay overnight. I should be arriving in Nairobi sometime around the 8th. From Nairobi I may head to Arusha in Tanzania, or I may skip Tanzania and head for the coast. I'll let ya'll know when I do.

So there is a rough outline of my first two weeks or so of traveling. This itinerary is subject to change, but gives some idea of the route I will be taking.

Maps and stuff - where I've been in Uganda

2006-03-20T04:41:00.000-04:00

You may notice that a couple of "map" links have been added on the sidebar. I have added maps of Uganda, Kenya, and Tanzania that you can look at to see where I am. I am also experimenting with messing with the maps in Paint to mark the places I have been or am going to. Below is the map I have made of where I have been in Uganda. The black squares are places I have been, the ones with red dots inside are places I am going. The thick blue lines are my proposed route. I will do the same with my planned route through Kenya, if ya'll find this to be a helpful way to get a sense of where I am at. And I can update as I go, since most computers should have paint. So please post in the comments section if you think such maps will be useful. (Or if anyone has an idea of how I can convery this information more elegantly, I'm not so good with paint.)

So the plan for getting out of uganda (shown on the map below) is as follows: I will be going to Kampala Thursday evening, staying overnight so that I can do some errands (changing money into Kenyan Shillings, shopping) and have one last nice meal before hitting the road. I'll be meeting Alexis and Sister Harriet in Kampala, and travelling with Sister Harriet as far as Mbale on Friday, then Alexis and I will continue onto Sipi Falls (Northernmost black square with red). We will stay there for a few days, then Alexis will return to UMU and I will cross into Kenya at the Busia border post.

Mpanga Forest Reserve Pictures

2006-03-19T02:28:00.000-04:00

Here are a few of the pictures I took in Mpanga.

I got two nice shots of butterflies

And here a my "butterfly ghost" pictures!

Another Crazy Night in Kampala

2006-03-19T02:09:00.000-04:00

Friday night Alexis and I were invited to go dancing with some students. Here is how it works – a matatu is booked to drive to Kampala around 11pm, and return around 5 or 6am. Because a big group goes, no one has to pay cover. So the van was supposed to go at 10pm… then at 11… then we waited for everyone to show up until after midnight.

Following a somewhat scary drive (no headlights doesn’t rule out night driving in Uganda), we arrived at the basement, were ushered into the VIP room, and danced till around 5:30. The club was very hot and sweaty as the AC wasn't working, so we were very very glad to hang in the more comfortable VIP room! And again, I have to say that african women can really dance! I have to learn how they do that with their hips!

Then Alexis and I went to a friends apartment to crash, then we woke up, had a huge, HUGE Indian meal (mmmm… curry!) and went shopping, then back to Nkozi again.

I’m busy planning my itinerary for my trip now, and I’ll post it as soon as I’m done so ya’ll can have some idea where I’m at.

Lake Bunyonyi

2006-03-17T09:26:00.000-04:00

I spent last weekend at Lake Bunyonyi in the southwest of Uganda. It is easy to get to, just outside Kabale, which is Uganda’s highest town. The lake is the third deepest in the world, second deepest in Africa, and the absolute deepest in Uganda. It was indescribably beautiful, but I’ll try to describe it anyway!

The lake is surrounded by terraced hills, a dotted with more than 20 islands. The play of shadow and the depth of the greens on these hills is amazing; I was frustrated by my inability to capture it with my camera. No number of mega pixels can record what the eyes see and the soul feels in this setting.

I arrived late Saturday afternoon, got set up in a tent, then spent the evening relaxing by the lake, though it was too cool by that point to go swimming. At night they had a campfire, and with the high altitude, it was the first campfire I been to in Uganda where people actually wanted to sit close and feel the heat!

Here is a picture of the view from my campsite

The next morning I had a leisurely breakfast followed by a trip around the islands in a dugout canoe. We passed by the site below where an NGO teaches practical skills to local children, such as swimming (most of the locals do not know how to swim).

These dugout canoes are the main form of transportation among communities around the lake (even though most of the people in the can't swim!)

Here I am in the canoe, Bushara Island behind me.

We stopped on an island that used to be a leper colony, but is now used as a school and took a walk around.

Church on the Lepers Island

Crested crane in the fields

Walking back down to the boat the views were gorgeous

Then we sailed past Punishment Island, a very small island where women who were pregnant and unmarried were left to die. (Most perished while trying to swim for shore). This practice ended about 50 years ago.

Punishment Island

Me, sailing towards Punishment Island.

Then I arrived back at the campsite and spent a wonderful afternoon swimming and relaxing by the lake.

That evening we had a campfire again, and I played drinking games with a truck tour. The next morning I hung around waiting for it to get warm enough for a swim (it didn’t before I had to leave) then walked back to Kabale and got a bus.

View on the road to Kabale

I could easily have spent much more time in Lake Bunyonyi, just chilling out and not doing much except lying on a lounger and taking the occasional swim.

More pics from Murchison!

2006-03-15T04:50:00.000-04:00

After the morning game drive we went back to the red chili campsite and spent a couple of hours sprawled across the wicker furniture of the bar. Under its thatched roof we at least had shade, though the heat was still intense, the air still and heavy and hot. We had lunch and chatted languidly; sweat pooling in-between legs crossed for even a moment. It was one of the hottest days of the year, and we were in one of Uganda’s hottest areas!

This little guy ran by while we were lounging

Then in the late afternoon we went on the launch trip up the Nile from Paraa to the falls.

Here I am on the boat.

Along the way we saw lots of animals coming down to the river to drink, such as elephants and waterbucks.

And then there were the water based animals. We saw hundred of hippos

And crocodiles, including some crocs with their dinner (poor baby hippo!)

We also saw some cool birds

And then we reached the falls, where we anchored by a rock and everyone climbed out to have a picture taken with the falls as a background.

The next morning we were up very early to go chimp trekking in the forest. The forest was gorgeous to walk through, but the chimps, when we found them, were very far away and hard to see. Here is the best of the (not so great) pictures.

And lastly, a very blurry picture of me in front of a giant tree!

Then we went back to Kampala, lounged around Red Chili for a while, and then celebrated our trip with a huge feast of Indian food and dancing till the wee hours at Ange Noir Nightclub.

Dancing, singing, drinking, and getting lost in the forest!

2006-03-09T02:26:00.000-04:00

It has been a nice week here. Friday night Alexis and I went into Kampala, feasted at Kraal Thai, saw North Country at the cinema, and then hooked up with some UMU students at a club called The Basement and danced till the wee hours. Slept in the next day and had a big breakfast by the pool before doing a spot of shopping and heading back to Nkozi. It was a very nice trip to Kampala; for once I came back refreshed instead of feeling all stressful.

Then on Sunday I went to Mpanga Forest for a walk. It’s a forest reserve gazetted in the 1930s that is known for birds, butterflies, and monkeys. A guide led me to the trailhead, then I was free to explore on my own, stalking butterflies through the woodland. Except I couldn't find my way off of the trail! The trail is a loop; I was literally walking in circles. At one point I thought I had found my way out, then the trail became overgrown, then there was a stream that I forded by balancing precariously on a fallen tree (thanks for the ballet lessons go out to my folks, that stuff is useful, balance and all that) then the trail disappeared and I had to do it again in the opposite direction. All the same I had a pleasant walk, stalking butterflies and exploring the forest with the calls of birds and chatter of monkeys in the canopy above. And I felt quite the competent woodswoman when I found my way out.

Sunday night I was back in Nkozi, and Alexis and I decided to open up a bottle of wine I had purchased a few weeks ago in Kampala. After a minor mishap (we set the mat down in the path of biting red ants which led to a couple of bites) we settled into getting pleasantly drunk and singing. Once the bottle was gone we went to the Eucalyptus and talked politics with Ivan, one of Alexis’s classmates.

Then yesterday was Women’s Day, and a public holiday. They also celebrated “Cultural Day” on campus. Lots of people were dressed up in traditional outfits, at lunch different groups made their traditional foods, and in the evening there was an exhibition of traditional dances and songs. Man, can those African women shake their booties! I’ve got to get someone to teach me, when they dance its like their hips aren’t attached to the rest of their bodies, and shaking like crazy!

So all around it has been a pretty good week. I think I might go to Lake Bunyoni this weekend, I’ll let ya’ll know how it goes.

And I’ve only two weeks left, then Kenya!

Murchison Falls

2006-03-02T02:32:00.000-04:00

Ok, so I'm finally getting around to putting up some of the Murchison pics. I would have done it sooner, but the internet has been horrid! (I miss chatting on MSN!)

So, we set out friday morning from Kampala, two vans filled with at least 6 nationalities, mostly women, for Murchison Falls. The vans were hot and the drive was long, but at least we weren't in a matatu. We all had a whole seat to ourselves, there were only 8 passengers plus a driver in each van! (A matatu which is of the same size often hold more than 20 people!)

We stopped for lunch in Masindi, and arrived in Murchison in the late afternoon. First up was a hike around the top of the falls. There are actually two falls, Murchison Falls, which is natural, and another (I can't remeber the name) which was created by blasting because Murchsison had a tendancy to flood.

Mrchison Falls

Manmade falls

The hike was hot and sweaty, but then we got to a viewpoint under the falls where we could feel the cool spray from the falls, and get a clear veiw over the permanent rainbow it creates.

And here am I, standing at the top of the falls.

After our hike we headed to camp for dinner and relaxtation. The next day started very early, the sun wasn't even up!

Here is the campsite at dawn

We went on an early morning game drive and raced around seeing lots of antelope, buffalo, hartbeasts, and two giraffes. Unfortunatly, my camera died, so I only got this buffalo picture

Luckily one of the women in my van had extra batteries, and my camera started working again, just in time for the highlight of the drive, we were tracking some lions, lost them in the bushes, but instead saw a leopard in a tree!

This was really special because leopards are one of the hardest of the cats to see, as they are very shy, and well hidden by their spots.

On our way back there were guys fishing on the Lake George.

Our guide stopped and bought fish

And we saw a hartbeast!

And another giraffe!

Stay tuned, to come are elephants, hippos, and chimps, oh my!

New Template

2006-03-02T01:35:00.000-04:00

Ok, some of you might have noticed that my blog has been down for a few days. It seems that I somehow destroyed the template while teasing Joe by making his link "old codger". So I guess it's kind of karmic that I've had to totally change templates, loosing all my customizations in the process. Anyway, I'm going looking for the links that have been lost, if you wish to be linked, please leave me a message here.

What I'm up to

2006-02-26T08:09:00.000-04:00

Well, the elections happened on thursady. No violence in Nkozi, though there are reports of intimidation and vote rigging in other districts. Of course, the EU has come out with a report saying that the election was free and fair, although they do aknowledge that it wasn't a level playing feild with Besigye being in jail and court during the campaigning, and Museveni using government resources for campaigning.

On Thursday I walked down to the equator with some friends (Alexis, Sister Charity, and Sister Harriet). Along the way we stopped at the Nkozi polling station for Sister Harriet to do her civic duty. The polling is all outdoors, so Alexis and I were exited to observe the whole process. We wanted pics, but weren't sure if that was allowed. Howvere, when we got to the equator there was a polling station right next to the equator markers, so I took this picture while pretending to photograph the equator.

Then we actually took some real tourist pics at the equator. Here I am, with one foot in each hemisphere (which is often how I feel these days)

So, on a more frivolous note, I got my hair braided. It took all day, from 7:30 am till 3pm. Alexis kept me company and took some pictures for me.

Here is what I looked like "before"

Here I am getting the braids.

And here is my new do!

Anyway, while getting the braids, the radio was anouncing the unofficial results which come from observers who count the ballots along with the electoral commision people. Those results said that Besigye and Museveni were both around 47 or 48 percent. But when the offical results came in yesterday, Musevini got aroung 60 percent of the vote. Something kind of fishy in that. And you've got to love that the EU people declared the election free and fair before the official vote tally was released. Cause it seems something might have happened between the polling stations and EC headquarters? (Something like a whole lot of pre-ticked museveni ballots got added in?) But right now all seems calm, despite the questions this raises.

Not much new here

2006-02-13T04:12:00.000-04:00

Not much is going on here, so this is just a quick update so ya'll no that I'm safe and healthy! Actually, speaking of health, I'm getting my last rabies shot today. Hooray, no more missing work to go into Kampala! (err... wait... maybe thats not such a good thing after all?)

I was also in Kampala with a few friends to do some shopping on Saturday, and I bought some fake hair, so keep posted for pics of my new do. Not sure when I'm getting it done, maybe next weekend. Apparently getting braids is an all day committment, but hopefully I'll be able to arrange to have a couple people working on me at once so that it goes quicker.

Otherwise, life continues in Nkozi. The elctions are heating up; they will take place on Feb 23. But don't worry, I intend to spend the day at home with a book and some movies, staying out of trouble.

I'm also working on updating my resume and sending it to bunches of firms at home. So if anyone hears of any law-related jobs, or any other jobs that could use my skill, please let me know.

Only six weeks left at my job, then I'll be taking off to see the rest of East Africa!

Lake Mburo Part 2 - Charge of the Hippo

2006-02-08T04:16:00.001-04:00

Just a couple of days after I went to Lake Mburo with Alexis, we had some visitors from the university of Groningen. There was a public holiday while they were here, so Max decided we should take them somewhere. So that is how it came to be that only four days after leaving Lake Mburo, I headed back there with Max, Eric, and Marieke.

We drove into the park, passing lots of Ankole cattle and crested cranes on our way.

Then we stopped for lunch at the restaurant by the lake, and once again a hippo came out to graze. The people at the restaurant later told that that particular hippo was known as Jennifer.

Jennifer was pretty calm at first, some kids were running around all excited and screaming but she took no notice of them. Nor did she take much notice of us taking pictures.

Jennifer was still there when we were finished lunch; in fact, it was between us and the restrooms. But she had been so calm, that it seemed it should be possible to walk around her. So Marieke set out. My back was to the whole thing, but this is what witnesses say happened next:

Marieke was circling around Jennifer and Jennifer looked at her. She looked back, smiling, trying to convey friendliness. But Jennifer was not impressed and began to charge. Marieke started running, faster than she had ever run before. At this point people in the restaurant noticed what was happening (a charging hippo is much quieter than you would think.) Max stood up yelling and waving his arms. Jennifer stopped and Marieke made it back to the safety of the restaurant. Jennifer went back to grazing and taking no notice of us. Marieke got quite a fright, but wasn’t injured.

Eventually Jennifer moved on, and we were able to get back to the car. We drove around for a bit on our way out of the park, seeing animals such as buffalo, antelope and more zebras.

Lake Mburo Part 1

2006-02-07T02:28:00.000-04:00

One weekend Alexis and I decided to go to Lake Mburo to see the zebras. We got up early Saturday morning, loaded up our backpacks with food, water, and other essentials, and took off.

After about three hours on a matatu, we reached the turn off. There we had to bargain to get a decent price into the park. We ended up working out a deal for one boda boda to take both of us. Normally sharing bodas isn’t a problem, though you have to get pretty close to each other. This time we both had fair sized backpacks, so one pack went on the handlebars, while one person sat on the back wearing a backpack. Which, in my case, made me totally feel like I was going to fall off the back.

But we arrived at headquarters without falling off and found a banda to stay in.

Once we were settled in, we were able to walk down to the restaurant by the lake, with the accompaniment of an armed ranger. The restaurant has unremarkable and overpriced food, but the location is superb!

There were hippos swimming in the lake, and one came out to graze!

Then we went back to the campsite and spent the evening chilling out with the warthogs.

Some impalas came by the campsite as well

And monkeys!

I saw a lizard too!

And a cool butterfly.

At first light the next morning we set out on a game walk. Our guide was excellent, he found elands (too far away for a pic, but they are a very rare antelope) and soon we were in the valley, and could see zebras, topis, and warthogs.

More zebras

Topis

Impalas

Buffalo

Then we hung by the lake, packed up, and soon were once again balanced precariously on a boda on our way out of the park.

Sarafina!

2006-01-20T01:00:00.000-04:00

Last night I watched Sarafina! Go rent this movie immediately. It is a musical about apartheid, specifically the 1976 Soweto uprising and massacre. It is not a typical light 'n' fluffy musical, though I suppose you can tell that much from the subject matter. This movie is... intense. I knew vaguely that apartheid was bad, but I didn't really know that much about the forms it took. I was alternately horrified and inspired by this story of a young girl in the townships. That's all I'll say for now (don't want to ruin it for you) just go and rent it. Now.

Warning: Although I think you should see the movie, you should also know that it contains scenes of violence/torture that are disturbing for all viewers, and if you are white might make you want to tear off your own skin.

Nightlife and Rodents in Kampala

2006-01-16T10:27:00.000-04:00

So last weekend I went into Kampala with my new friend, Alexis. We did some shopping and errand running, had divine Thai for dinner, and then settled at the Red Chili hideaway for the evening.

Alexis went to check her email and I played a few hands of rummy with an American couple in the bar. Then it happened: a small black rodent ran up to my foot, I felt something sharp, jerked, and it ran away. Uh oh, was that a bite? Cause I remembered the travel nurse telling me that if I got bitten, I would have to go home. The American thought nothing of it, hadn’t I had my rabies shots before coming? No I hadn’t, and besides, even if you’ve had the pre-exposure vaccine, you still need post exposure shots. So, I left them and washed my toe, looked closely but no obvious wound, no bleeding, so I thought maybe I was overreacting to the whole thing.

The card playing Americans were a bit of a bore, so when I came back to the bar I joined another group of Americans, all Peace Corps volunteers. They were on their way out to the bars and invited me along. Sure, why not, Kampala nightlife was on my list of things to do while here. Alexis wasn’t in the mood for going out, so I joined the Americans on their tour of the Kampala scene. First stop was a bar called Half-London, highly recommended by Lonely Planet. Which goes to show how much they know! It was ok for a quiet beer (and I’ll go back sometime to try the game meat… I wonder if zebra tastes like moose?) but the only entertainment to be had was girls with no rhythm (there goes another stereotype!) dancing in bikinis.

So we decided to head for a bar called Silk, but before finding it we came across Ange-Noir Discotheque. Walls painted black, neon pictures and mirrors on the walls, and black lights everywhere. A variety of western and African hip hop kept us shaking our booties till nearly 3am, at which point we were all exhausted, though the bars stay open till 5 am, we couldn’t make it!

So the next day, Alexis and I did some more shopping and headed back to Nkozi. But the incident with the rodent was still niggling at my mind, so I went online and looked up rabies. Yikes! By the time you get symptoms, you’re dead! 100 percent fatality once it hits the central nervous system! And it’s not a pretty death either, its all convulsions and foaming at the mouth type stuff.

But don’t freak out too much my friends, I went to Kampala today and got the first of 5 shots to prevent that from happening. So I will be fine. Except for the inconvenience of going to Kampala for the shots, that is.

Finally! Pictures from Queen Elizabeth National Park!

2006-01-13T15:31:00.000-04:00

I finally figured out (again) how to post pictures, so here are all the aminals (haha) from my trip to the park. Enjoy!

I'm planning a trip to Murchison soon, so expect to be inudated with even more pics soon!

2006-01-13T15:25:00.000-04:00

Waterbucks

2006-01-13T15:24:00.000-04:00

Lioness - bad quality, but I didn't want to get too close!

2006-01-13T15:20:00.000-04:00

Blue Lake - Crocs!

2006-01-13T15:18:00.002-04:00

Python

2006-01-13T15:18:00.001-04:00

Blue Lake - if you look closely you can see a crocodile!

2006-01-13T15:18:00.000-04:00

Huts near Jacana

2006-01-13T15:17:00.001-04:00

That's how many bats - except all the walls look like that!

2006-01-13T15:17:00.000-04:00

The Bat Cave

2006-01-13T15:16:00.000-04:00

Head shot - Columbus Monkey

2006-01-13T15:15:00.000-04:00

Black and White Columbus Monkey

2006-01-13T15:12:00.000-04:00

Savanna

2006-01-13T15:11:00.001-04:00

a grazing warthog

2006-01-13T15:11:00.000-04:00

Ugandan Kob - male

2006-01-13T15:10:00.001-04:00

Another Hyena Pic

2006-01-13T15:10:00.000-04:00

Bird flying off a candelabra tree

2006-01-13T15:09:00.001-04:00

Baby Warthog! Isn't it Cute!

2006-01-13T15:09:00.000-04:00

Elephants' behinds!

2006-01-13T15:08:00.000-04:00

Buffalo

2006-01-13T15:07:00.002-04:00

Spotted Hyena

2006-01-13T15:07:00.001-04:00

Me at the gorge

2006-01-13T15:07:00.000-04:00

Baboon with Baby

2006-01-13T15:06:00.001-04:00

Baboon

2006-01-13T15:06:00.000-04:00

Monitor Lizard

2006-01-13T15:05:00.002-04:00

Here are the Lesbian Kobs

2006-01-13T15:05:00.001-04:00

This bird shared my breakfast at the lodge - who knew that weavers drank milk?

2006-01-13T15:05:00.000-04:00

the Road to Myera Peninsula

2006-01-13T15:04:00.000-04:00

Waterbuck

Some bad poetry

2006-01-12T02:59:00.000-04:00

I just found this on my computer, written a few days before going home for christmas. Its derivative crap, but perhaps it gives some sense of the place.

And then it hits you
When the boda slows for crossing goats
And you look aside from the dust of the road
To see the moon hanging low and ponderous
Full-term
In splendid gold
Drowning the dying rays of sun
And even the flames of bush fire below
As proud in her finery -
As noble –
as the women gliding in prints
vibrant even through the haze
of dust and smoke
heads high under
Baskets of matoke
And the moon hangs low
Over bush fire
And banana trees
What world will she birth
In the days aheadWhat will come of her fecund beauty?

Back in Africa

2006-01-09T12:54:00.000-04:00

It was a fun, crazy, emotional, and occasionally drunken christmas. Lots of hanging out, getting my ass kicked playing mariocart with my sisters, eating too much food, hanging at baba's. I'll write more about it later, and maybe post some pics if I can get hello working.

I stopped in London onroute and hung out with Brendan. We oggled the gorgeous clothes, shoes, and jewels (Tiffany's!) then had divine deserts at Harrods. Then went to Sunday afternoon drag caberet at Molly Mogg's. A fun day.

So, now I'm back in boring Nkozi, but hey its only a little more than 2 months, then I can travel. But I miss ya'll already, already regreting that I didn't take Heather up on her offer to hide me in her attic till spring!

Merry Christmas!

2005-12-25T05:21:00.000-04:00

Its about 5:30 am on Christmas morning, and I seem to be the first person in my family to wake up! So I'm posting to stave off the boredom. Come on kids, wakey wakey, me wanna see if Santa came!

Finalized plans! finally!

2005-12-17T05:35:00.000-04:00

Well, I finally managed to book the flight to PEI, so I'll be getting home at 6:40pm. Thanks to everyone who looked for rides for me! And I found out why the booking didn't work, it wasn't aircanada, it turn out my card had been suspended because I made a charge at a business that has been skimming cards! The Visa security people reinstated it temporarily to help me get home, and because it doesn't look like any weird charges had been put through. So all is well.

New Study: Get into Heaven

2005-12-14T14:48:00.000-04:00

A new study from Hrvardi Posh School of Thought suggests that by giving rides to people stranded at the airport can increase your karma by up to 75% AND give you a 95% chance of going to heaven. This is good news for hindus, buddists, christians, and people who just like to have a good chance at stuff!*

*Heaven may not be the actual Kingdom of God, but Laurie’s Pants.**
**Getting into Laurie’s Pants does not necessarily imply sexual contact. You may simply be invited to try on Ms. Boswall’s pants.

Fill Up My Dance Card!

2005-12-14T11:54:00.000-04:00

Hi my beautiful friends who I miss so, so much! So, here is the deal so far. It is likely, though not confirmed that my dad will pick me up in Halifax Tuesday night, but not till late cause he has to work. So I won't be in Ch-town till about midnight, and at that point I'll be desperately wanting a shower! (Mmmm... hot shower with no bugs in it, followed by being wrapped up in a big fluffy towel... you have no idea how nice that sounds!) So I won't be available for drink till 1ish Tuesday night. Which I'm up for, but you lovely people work, so I get that it won't work out. (If anyone does want to meet up, and/or doesn't have to work the next day, please leave me a message!)

So, it looks like we'll be getting together Wednesday night instead. Which as I recall is open-mic night, always fun! But maybe it would be good to get together before that? Somewhere quietish that we can talk? Suggestions welcome! As my email access is sketchy, I suggest you leave messages as to plans and social itineraries here.

I love and miss ya'll like crazy, I can't get home soon enough!

PS - if anyone has the time to drive to Halifax and get me home a bit earlier, I'll pay bridge and gas!

ps - Will's party is Wednesday Night, so that is where I will be! But I'm still accepting invites to balls, fetes, square dance and hootinanies for other dates.

I got my passport back!

2005-12-14T08:55:00.000-04:00

Ok, so I was totally freaking out last night, because I talked to Robert (the guy who's been talking to immigration for me) and I thought he would have the passport yesterday, but they told him again to come back "tomorrow." So I insisted on going with him today, and it was so frustrating. First of all the woman who we were dealing with at immigration started yelling when we arrived, in Luganda, so I had no idea what was being said. The whole time we were there she and Robert would speak very fast in Luganda, while I stood there not understanding. Then I would have to ask what was going on, I mean, it is my passport, and they do speak English, so I think she did it to be deliberately rude.

Finally they told me again, come back tomorrow. I said no, I need the passport now, what can we do to speed it up? (This was me trying to give them an opening to ask for a bribe.) They kept saying no. Nothing can be done. Finally, exasperated I said that I needed it today because otherwise I would have to speak to my embassy about what was to be done, and I needed to give the embassy a few days notice to help me before I left. Then all of a sudden it was possible for me to have the passport! Thank god I went myself, because I am sure that Robert wouldn’t have argued with them, would just have been satisfied with endless tomorrows that never come!

So, my work visa is still not processed, but I have the passport, and nothing stands in the way of me being at home on Tuesday! (So let's meet for some drinks Tuesday evening - maybe Baba's? Or 42nd Street? Vote for your choice in the comments section!)

Perhaps this fifty thousand shilling note would help to speed up the process?

2005-12-12T04:18:00.000-04:00

What is it with me and my passport? I think that this relationship has become quite unhealthy! Some of you will remember my frantic search for my passport before leaving for Uganda, it was eventually found in a place I had checked numerous times and I suspected I had a Pooca (one of the wee folk which hides things and moves them around.)

But this time a much more insidious force then the wee folk is at work. My passport is at the immigration office, going through the hoops for a work permit. A man from the finance office at the university has been working on it, and he keeps telling me that he’s going “tomorrow” to immigration, but then he comes back and tells me that they told him to come back “tomorrow”. But there aren’t that many “tomorrows” left before my plane takes off from Entebbe. I’m leaving early on Monday morning, so I MUST have the passport in my hand by Friday at the latest. Sooner would be better for my blood pressure.
I guess like before I should just keep faith that it will all work out. But it’s much harder to do so when the whole thing is out of my hands, and in the hands of the bureaucracy of an inefficient and often corrupt third world state!

Lots of animals and the kindness of strangers

2005-12-11T13:43:00.000-04:00

This weekend’s adventure is brought to you by Queen Elizabeth National Park! I took Friday off and spent most of it traveling to the park. (Three matatus, all crowded and hot!) I got dropped off in Katunguru where the Locals told me it was a 20 km walk to the park gate, and I would have to hire an expensive car to drive me or I would meet animals on the walk! Well, I didn’t want that, but I decided to try Lonely Planet’s suggestion of hitching a ride with passing safari vehicles instead of paying for a private car. A local woman runs a craft shop by the turn off to the park, she helped me flag down a park vehicle and we chatted while I waited. Her 4 year old daughter doesn’t speak English yet, but we had good non-verbal communication and when I stopped there on my way out she recognized me and ran to me for a hug!

Once in the park I was confronted with the super high costs for everything. A game drive costs $115US! So instead I set out to make friends with other travelers to share costs. I met a tour group who was planning a game drive and nature walk for the next day and was able to go with them for MUCH cheaper. Of course it’s hardly necessary to go on the drive, wildlife is everywhere, warthogs graze around the canteen and the lodge, and a hippo walked by the canteen my first night there!

The game drive was great, we saw a hyena, baboons, waterbucks, kobs, warthogs, forest hog, monitor lizard, and an elephant. And tons of birds. And the kobs were mating; we saw a male trying to mount a female, and also some females mounting each other! Take that you right-wing bastards who say homosexuality isn’t natural! Unfortunately I didn’t get a picture of the lesbian kobs in action, every time I got my camera up they got shy and stopped (and who can blame them, I wouldn’t want tourists in my bedroom either.)

We had a tasty lunch at Jacana Safari Lodge (the best pasta I’ve had in Uganda!) where there were black and white columbus monkeys playing in the trees near the bar, and even running through the lodge. Then we went on a walk through the forest to the bat cave, where we saw thousands, if not a million (in the words of our guide) Egyptian fruit bats. And a python.

Then back to the Mweya where I stopped at the lodge for a drink and saw a huge herd of 40 or 50 elephants across the gorge.

I still hadn’t seen a lion though, and I was quite disappointed by that. I decided to do a nature walk on Sunday morning even though I knew I wouldn’t see much that I hadn’t seen on the game drive, but I fancied a walk and another drive would have been way too expensive. So at 7am (these things start early) I met my guide and a Finnish guy who is biking around Uganda for the walk. Before we even started the guide showed us a lion hanging out across the gorge, but of course it was too far away for pics. However, within a few minutes into the walk we saw two female lions. Not too close, but close enough to see with the naked eye and to get some good pics! (Don’t worry, I didn’t stick my head in their mouths Heather!)

Then after a great breakfast at the lodge I headed out of the park with the tour group I had met earlier. The best elephant sighting of the trip came when our vehicle had to stop and let several elephants cross the road, right in front of the van!

I then got into the worst matatu I’ve seen yet. It started stalling all over the place and was filling up with noxious fumes, plus making sounds that convinced me that it was about to blow up! I decided that it just wasn’t safe and got off and walked down the road to a tiny village to try and flag down another (hopefully safer) matatu. There was almost no traffic on the road, and I was the most exciting thing to hit the village in ages, a group of men sat across the road from me and were hoping and hollering, and generally laughing there asses off at the stranded mzungu. I was getting quite self-conscious about the whole thing when an aid vehicle stopped to offer me a lift.

The silver lining of the whole story is that the people in the vehicle were quite concerned that I get safely home that they insisted their driver take me into Mbarara and see me onto a bus. So instead of traveling that leg of the trip in a smelly crowded matatu I got a lovely ride in an air-conditioned SUV. Plus, before their driver took me on they had to stop at a silk worm farm (their project is developing the silk industry in Uganda) and they insisted on showing me around. Then they also showed me around the factory where they were stopping for meetings. So I got a nice ride and a neat little bit of site-seeing that I would never have seen but for the health-hazard of a matatu and the kindness of strangers.

I have tons of pictures that I'll be posting later this week, pictures of the rafting still to come as well.

Floating Down the Nile, Sometimes Peacefully, Sometimes Not!

2005-12-08T05:25:00.000-04:00

I was still pumped up from the bungee jump when we set out on the rafting, so I immediately jumped in the front of the raft (the wettest, wildest seat on the boat!) I was joined at the front by a Québécois guy. (Later we had the chance to discuss the upcoming federal election; he thought it was cool that I wanted to vote Bloc!) The rest of the raft was filled with an assortment of British, Aussie, and Dutch girls who volunteer at a school in Kampala. With our Guide Shane, there were eight people in the boat. There were two paddle rafts, a couple of kayaks (to paddle out and rescue us when we fell off) and a big oar raft, otherwise known as the safety or suntan raft, which carried our supplies.

We started in a calm pool above the first small (grade II) rapid. Shane showed us how to paddles, back paddle and “get down”. Get down means crouch in the bottom and hold on for dear life! He also took us through flipping the boat and told us that if the boat flipped and we came up underneath, there would be an air pocket there. And he showed us the proper way to pull someone back into the boat.

The first half of the day was a lot of rapids close together without much paddling in between, except to get us in position for the rapid. One of the Dutch girls decided after the first few rapids to go on the suntan raft, so there were now six rafters and our guide. We only went through one grade V, where I got knocked off and pulled in by one of our kayakers. No problem. The grade III and IV rapids were good fun, getting slashed and the boat being knocked around a fair bit.

Then we stopped at an island in the river for lunch. What a great lunch. Dark brown bread, a selection of veggies, cold cuts, and a huge pile of shredded cheese! (Cheese is a big luxury here, and was the cause of great excitement among the rafters.)

Then we set out for the second half of our trip. After lunch the rapids were bigger but more spaced out. In between were long calm pools were we could jump out of the raft and float around for a bit, wearing our life jackets. It was gorgeous; at one point I was floating along and came within about a foot of a cormorant. The water was warm, the sun shining down, and the scenery gorgeous. I couldn’t believe it; I was floating down the Nile!

It was hard work though, when we weren’t swimming, paddling the raft long distances to the next rapid. Definitely a workout!

The first grade V of the afternoon was Retrospect. It was here that I had my terrifying, I’m going to drown moment. The first couple of waves were great, knocking the boat up and coming down on top of us. Then the boat got hit hard, it went way up and I was in the water. It happened fast, and I didn’t get a good gulp of air before going under and when I came up the boat was above me. Ok, I think, look for the air pocket. But there is no air pocket. The boat hadn’t flipped. And I could find my way out from under it with all the crazy currents tossing me and the boat around. I was freaking out, it felt like I was down there for hours (in reality it was about 20 or 30 seconds). I couldn’t find my way out, couldn’t find the damn air pocket, I thought I was drowning. In my panic I screamed for help. But I was under water, no one could hear, and it used the last of my breath. Luckily just then I popped up beside the boat, and Shane pulled me back in. Then he was right back grabbing Ellie, who had also been trapped underneath, and was having a small asthma attack. We later marveled that we hadn’t bumped into each other down there, and commiserated on our search for the air pocket that wasn’t there.

So after that I was pretty freaked. We had to portage around the next grade V, Overtime, as the water was too high, and I can’t say I minded. Then we came to our second to last rapid, a grade III. Shane asked if we wanted to flip the boat in it, as practice for The Bad Place where the boat would almost certainly flip. The rest of the group was up for it, so I went along, even though I wasn’t feeling great about being in the water at that point. So, we flipped the boat, and although I managed to keep a hold of the raft and my paddle (first time of the day I didn’t loose the paddle, I realized I was way too freaked, and too close to panic to go through The Bad Place. I had already been to a bad place that day, a very bad place!

So when we portaged around The Dead Dutchman (a grade VI rapid) I decided to join the Dutch girl in the suntan raft. We still got knocked around a bit, but we could hold on with both hands, and we skirted the edge of the rapid rather than going through the guts of it. Then we got to watch the other go through. Everyone got knocked off and we pulled a few of them into the safety raft.

Then it was onto the bus where a cooler of cold Nile Specials (beer) and pop was waiting to ease our thirst and up the celebration factor as we drove back to camp. No laws about open liquor in vehicles in Uganda, and hey, so long as the driver sticks to pop a cold beer makes a long bumpy journey rather more pleasant!

Bungee Jumping, or how to jump into nothing and survive!

2005-12-05T03:03:00.000-04:00

From the ground the platform doesn’t look that high. But that’s because walking from the bus to the base of the platform you might not realize that the Nile High Club is on the edge of a cliff looking over the White Nile.

At the base I am met by two Kiwi guys who weigh me and write my weight on my hand. Way humiliating, I could really stand to loose a little.

The climbing up they assure me that their safety record is “110%”. But wait, no, tell me the truth! They are joking around, not reassuring at all!

Then I am sitting at the top and Shane is wrapping my ankles up with a large towel and what looks like the same type of strap from my backpack. He assures me that it is a climbing strap, rated for two tons. And I don’t weigh quite that much, so no worries.

Then they connect the bungee and I shuffle out to the edge, my ankles tied together. I’m not feeling very secure just standing there, what with the lack of movement and balance.

And I’m looking over the edge, and its really, really far down, and the cliffs look way to close (although they aren’t) and every atom in my body is screaming that this is a really bad idea, that stepping out into nothing is sure death, cause as far below as the water is, if I step into nothing it will come to me quickly, and hard. My primal self knows that to step of the platform is certain death, even if my intellect knows that I am totally secure. And intellect is a small breathless voice to the roaring “NO!” of my body.

Everyone in the bar is lined up by the railing watching me. The two guys on the platform are counting down. I can’t back out, I’ll be humiliated. So I jump out, arms spread.

Then I am falling, I must be dying, I never really commit to the dive and manage to end up going feet first. The ground is coming up really, really fast!

But then I slow and then I’m flying back up into the air, and down again. By the third or fourth bounce I know I’m ok and its quite fun flying through the air.

Then they lower me onto the waiting raft, paddle me to the landing and I scramble barefoot up the rocky path, my heart pounding. It already seems like it happened to someone else.

The next day I watched a couple of people jump and it occurred to me, I wonder what I screamed as I fell? So I asked one of the girls who’d been watching, and she told me I didn’t scream at all. I guess the screams were just in my head. Because when I looked at the pictures, I appear to be holding my breath. Weird.

2005-12-04T14:43:00.000-04:00

Can I really do this? The crazy Kiwi says yes.

2005-12-04T14:31:00.000-04:00

For a moment I was almost graceful!

2005-12-04T14:28:00.000-04:00

a picture of where i got out of the water after my jump, that blue thing is the raft they pulled me in on

Scary things

2005-12-04T14:27:00.000-04:00

So, I left Friday for Kampala, hung out at the Red Chili Hideaway (definitely recommended) and saw the new Harry Potter movie. Then, early Saturday morning I left for the Nile High Campsite for bungee jumping and rafting with Adrift. A fabulous place, defiantly check it out if you're ever in the area.

So, I jumped and went on a full day rafting trip. I'll post more later on both experiences, for now I’m just putting up the pictures I took. Cause every part of my body hurts. Even typing hurts. So stay tuned for the story of my near drowning! (Joking, I only thought I was drowning!)

There will be rafting pictures later, I ordered a DVD and pictures of the trip, but I have to pick it up in Kampala so it may be awhile.

Monkey Bar

2005-12-04T14:24:00.001-04:00

At the Nile High Club, monkeys frolic in nearby trees, and even run over the roof of the bar! I took ten pictures, and non of them turned out, but here are the best of the lot.

2005-12-04T14:24:00.000-04:00

try the closeup again

2005-12-04T14:21:00.000-04:00

Monkey

2005-12-04T14:20:00.000-04:00

Another Monkey

I ate a grasshopper!

2005-11-30T04:39:00.000-04:00

Crunchy green tubes, about 1 inch long, looking a bit like green beans, until you look closely enough to see that they have eyes. I was walking back from tea with some friends and a guy went by selling bags of these. I had seen them being sold on the road before, and assumed they were green beans. Well, the guys I was walking with got quite excited and bought a couple of bags, and insisted I should try some. Grasshoppers are crunchy, a little bit gritty, and have a kind of toasted flavor. They aren’t bad, but not good enough for me to be able to get over the grossness of the fact that they are bugs.

Traveling for errands and work is not fun!

2005-11-29T04:34:00.000-04:00

Not much going on here. Too much traveling, on Friday I was in Kampala for a meeting and I picked up my plane ticket. Then on Saturday I went to Mbarara for a development studies conference. We left at 5:30 in the morning and weren’t back until 9:30 at night. The conference had some interesting speakers; there was an American who was excellent, but also the usual problems with time management and facilitation. Particularly ironic is that one of the speakers mentioned this problem as one of the things that is holding Uganda back from development, and yet his 10 minute speech took nearly 40 minutes. The problem is acknowledged by everyone, yet no one wants to exercise restraint when they themselves are speaking!

Then yesterday I found out from human resources that they needed two more passport photos to send to immigration. Seeing as I became an illegal alien on Friday when my initial entry permit expired, I had to go to Kampala to get the photos right away. So yesterday I was again traveling!

I think I’ll have a relaxed couple of days here, then head to Jinga this weekend for some rafting, and, if I can work up the courage, bunging jumping! Or possibly Queen Elizabeth for a safari.

And there goes freedom of speech.

2005-11-25T04:35:00.000-04:00

http://www.monitor.co.ug/news/news11243.php

hmm... I wonder how long it will be before The Monitor (the idependant or opposition newspaper, depending on who you talk to) get shut down. I predict that it will be within the month.

More on Ugandan politics

2005-11-25T03:20:00.000-04:00

So, in the last week and a half, Besigye was arrested, his supporters rioted, one protester was killed, people were arrested for putting up posters on his behalf, protesting was banned, armed paramilitaries invaded the High Court, Besigye was court martialed (raising double-jeopardy issues) and Besigye's lawyers were charged with contempt of court for arguing their clients case (by the head of the military tribunal). All in all, democracy is not thriving in Uganda!

Here's a link to a pretty good article on the situation: http://www.monitor.co.ug/news/news11251.php

Anyway, if you have a few minutes, please call your MP and ask him or her what position Canada, as a donor nation, is taking on this. Uganda is dependent on monies from donor nations (Canada, US, Britain, Denmark, Netherlands, Germany, and others) and that influence should be used now to halt Uganda's descent into dictatorship. As well, please ask your MP to oppose Uganda's bid to host the 2007 Commonwealth Heads of Government meeting. Donor nations must make it clear that they will not accept a return to political oppression in Uganda.

Get the fatted calf ready for slaughter, I'm coming home!

2005-11-21T05:03:00.000-04:00

Hi everyone, wonderful fantastic news: I'm coming home for Christmas! My wonderful father, having been lobbied on my behalf by my fantastic sisters, is buying me a plane ticket for Christmas! I can't even begin to say how happy I am to be able to spend the holidays with my family and friends. I'll be home for two or three weeks, stay tuned for exact dates as I firm up my travel plans. I'll be flying into Halifax, so if anyone plans to be there around December 19th and would like to give me a ride home, I'll be happy to split the gas, and maybe even buy some drinks at Baba's (after the car is safely parked, of course!)

I'm Safe, and Sorry to worry ya'll

2005-11-17T14:47:00.000-04:00

God, I'm so sorry to freak ya'll out! Please don't worry, I'm fine and I'm safe.

Good suggestion on the embassy, I actually registered with the consulate as soon as I arrived, it’s recommended for all Canadians who are planning to be overseas for more than three months, plus it’s a requirement of the program I'm with. So the consulate knows where I am, has my email and cell number. And I know where to find the nearest full embassy as well, it’s in Nairobi. And I'm checking the Canadian and American travel advisories, but the only advisory at the moment is to stay out of Northern Uganda (and that has been the case for about 15 years!)

I don't think things are going to go pear-shaped here just yet, and if they do at some point the area where I am isn't likely to be a part of it at first. I'm in a small village an hour and a half away from any major towns (and thus the riots). As well, the armed group that Besigye may or may not be involved with (which may or may not actually exist!) is hanging out in the Congo and Sudan, if (and that's a big if!) a bush war were to actually break out it would start on the borders, giving me plenty of warning.

If need be I have enough credit on my visa to buy a plane ticket out, and enough hard currency to bribe a fisherman (Hell, stuff is so cheap here it’s probably enough to buy my own boat!) to take me over the lake (which is about 10 minutes from here) in a worst case scenario.

In any case, I think that it’s unlikely to be anything more than occasional riots until after the election. So, I will be careful about staying far away from political rallies and large crowds. And as a Muzungu, I am obviously not a voter, thus not someone to be influenced as far as voting goes. And neither side would want to be seen to be mistreating whites at this point, as both are hoping for the support and recognition of the international community, which tends to get pretty pissed when white folk are inconvenienced in the slightest!

So, to sum up, I don’t think that things are going to get very violent yet, I’m in a very safe area, and I know how to get out of the country quickly if need be.

Col. Besigye arrest links

2005-11-15T03:08:00.000-04:00

http://www.monitor.co.ug/news/news11157.php
http://allafrica.com/stories/200511141465.html

So, Besigye is the only person likely to give Museveni a real challenge in the upcoming elections. And yesterday he was arrested. Riots broke out in Kampala. This election is going to get messy.

2005-11-14T15:30:00.000-04:00

The matatu I took from Nyendo to Kalangala.

2005-11-14T15:29:00.000-04:00

Shack where you can buy chapatis and corn on the cob while waiting for the ferry.

2005-11-14T15:28:00.000-04:00

The ferry finally arrives.

2005-11-14T15:26:00.002-04:00

Traditional fishing boat on Lake Victoria

2005-11-14T15:26:00.001-04:00

Me on the ferry going to Kalangala.

2005-11-14T15:26:00.000-04:00

Can you find the bird in this picture?

2005-11-14T15:24:00.000-04:00

After supper we had a fire on the beach.

2005-11-14T15:23:00.000-04:00

Boat on the beach

2005-11-14T15:22:00.002-04:00

Bird on the beach

2005-11-14T15:22:00.001-04:00

A view from the beach

2005-11-14T15:22:00.000-04:00

Accross the bay.

2005-11-14T15:20:00.000-04:00

I relaxed in a hammock after doing some early morning kayaking

2005-11-14T15:19:00.000-04:00

Here is the view from the hammock

2005-11-14T15:18:00.000-04:00

The ferry passed lush islands on the way home.

Just Chillin'

2005-11-14T06:00:00.000-04:00

I arrived at Hornbill Campsite by boda boda, and was greeted by two dogs very aggressively running at the bike and barking and growling. Not the most auspicious welcome, though once I had been there a few minutes they started acting like puppies wanting their bellies rubbed and generally being very friendly.

So I didn’t get to do much, just chill on the beach and a little bit of kayaking in the morning. (I suck at kayaking, I kept going in circles and drifting out to sea until my arms were aching and I managed to get back into shore.) Still it was nice to get away.

There was a huge group of Danish and German volunteers at the campsite, and in the evening we had some beers and a campfire which was nice. But the best part was after everyone else had gone to their tents, I got into a hammock under a palm tree and lay there for quite a while just staring up at the sky, feeling incredibly peaceful. I wanted to just stay there and sleep under the stars, but sleeping without a net isn’t a great idea! But I think if I go back there sometime I might take my mosquito net and see if they’ll let me string it up over a hammock instead of tenting.

I also took a number of pictures; I’ll be posting them later tonight.

I'm a lazy expat bum/neo-colonialist scumbag

2005-11-11T02:58:00.000-04:00

Well, I finally did it. I've hired a village woman to clean my room and do my laundry. I'm trying to justify it to myself by saying that I'm creating employment and redistributing my income, but I feel guilty as hell as a white western woman to be paying a poor African woman to do my housework. I'm paying her a pittance, and though it's more than the usual wage, I know that if I was a big multinational paying a third world woman of colour so little, I'd be the first to boycott.